Hospitality & Opposition

I was recently reading an essay about “tribalism” in politics, social networks and institutions. Essentially, as “tribes” divide on finer and finer points of distinction, it becomes impossible to have civil discourse. Anyone who does not agree with us (not just agree on the stated objective, but also the reason for the the perceived injustice, who is to blame and the method by which resolution is to be accomplished) is to be shouted down. They are to be cancelled, isolated, and if possible – utterly destroyed socially.

We are currently in a land of multiple tribes, but 2 distinct family groups (here they talk about the family you belong to – much like descendants of Abraham, Lot, Esau or Jacob) dominate the culture. There is a lot of distrust between the two and a great deal of prejudice (the current president is of one tribe and in the national police force, 75% must be of his tribe), much of it a result of historic injustice. In addition, as you move away from the larger city centers, there is much distrust of the “yo vo” as well.

On our second day of prayer walks, we went to 4 “hard” villages. These are villages that had specifically rejected the Gospel. They are not interested in Jesus. They don’t need or want a church. They are voodoo practitioners and that is what they want.

But they say it with smiles, warmth and genuine hospitality!

We were in a village our guiding local pastor had visited on previous trips to the area. The village chief had absolutely rejected the idea of Christians establishing a presence in his village. They practiced voodoo and they had no need for this intrusion. Knowing this, we did not speak to anyone in the village until we went straight to see the chief (sometimes this is even translated as king – he is not just a “wise old man” sought out for advice or blessing).

As we approached the chief’s home, there was a flurry of activity as the porch was swept off, chairs and benches were brought out and cleaned, animals and insects were shooed away and a general reception was prepared. We were offered seats and the greeting began.

They have an interesting greeting ritual. Once everyone has been seated, leader greets leader in a series of questions. The “elder” or homeowner will ask, “How is your family?”, “How are you?”, “How are your children?”, (in a Christian context they might ask, “How is your wife?”, “How is your health?” and “How did you sleep?” The answers are all, “fine”, “good”, “never better”, “can’t complain” and such. It is almost a verbal dance with the answers given before the question is finished and the next question asked while the previous answer is given and ends with a handshake that is right out of the 70s with multiple changes in hand grip ending with the hands sliding down to finger tips and a final snap (like the secret handshake that everybody knows). Then introductions are made and we sit silently until the chief asks why we are present – usually in the form of “What is the goal of your visit (what do you hope to achieve)?”

Pastor Joel, explained that we were there to tell people about Jesus and to walk through the village praying (Une marche de prière). With a gentle voice, a big smile and pleasant attitude, the chief proceeded to tell us that they were now, had historically been and had every intention to remain voodoo practitioners. They had no need of our prayers, our Jesus or our church. He did not want us to walk through his village praying and we were not to talk to anyone. Never was a voice raised. No one was ever interrupted, cut-off or shouted down. The conversation remained civil at all times.

Joel asked how we might pray for the village and the chief asked us to pray for the health of the village (on that particular outing to 4 villages, the common themes were, the water is bad and making our children sick and people die too quickly (die young)). So even in opposition, we were allowed to pray and a request was made. Then the chief dispatched one of his “elders” (a headman in the village) to guide us to the elders in the other villages we were to visit and bid is farewell in a congenial way.

Now, I have no delusions that the words spoken to his village about us were anything other than direct and stern. I am quite sure that they were threatened with dire consequences if they were to interact with us. It would not surprise me at all if he cursed us (not profanity, but a ritual incantation wishing us harm by the act of a god or demon). But he was nice about it!

At the next village, I had the opportunity to pray with on of the elders who had a broken leg (broken on December 31st and still not able to get to a hospital). He even had the children run and get the men of the village so they were present when we prayed. He was open to having a church start in the village. He told us the he would not be attending the church, but he told everyone present that they should go.

We had other good conversations with a couple of other elders who were open to prayer and Joel’s return to share the gospel and establish a consistent presence. Though we didn’t have an opportunity to share the Gospel in any of these villages, Joel was encouraged at the invitation to return to two of the villages with the blessing of the chiefs.

The most interesting aspect for me was the general warm reception and congenial attitude from the most open to the most opposed. Hospitality and general civility was absolute. That is a far cry from what I usually experience at home.

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